SIERRA Gorda

Rio Ayutla

It’s easy to miss the turnoff to the humble town of Ayutla, and as you drive through the rural village you’ll probably second-guess your decision. But you’ll be glad you found it. In the middle of this towns runs some of the best stretches of the Ayutla river, plus some small waterfalls and swimming holes.

You’ll find shady campgrounds under mango, citrus and banana trees, and plenty of riverside picnic spots to spend the day in nature. The campsites are spacious enough that you usually do not need to pre-book, except during holidays when they completely fill up with local tourists.

The town only offers some small grocery shops and food stalls but you can find everything you need in the larger towns nearby. It’s a great natural backdrop to wake up to, and then explore the nearby sights during the day. If you come during low season, you can have the river to yourself.

“Las Adjuntas” of Ayutla and Santa Maria Rivers

Here you can watch Rio de Ayutla and Rio de Santa Maria clash currents. They are distinctly different: Ayutla is transparent blue, cold and rocky; Santa Maria has thermal, earthy water and a shallow sandy bottom. More so in rainy season, you can see the fight between the brown and blue rivers as they meet at what is coined ‘las Adjuntas’, the join.

When you drive between the town of Jalpan and Concá, you’ll cross a big bridge. From there you will see roads that lead down to the river, where you can find swimming areas, camping spots and walking trails along the river.

During Easter, this area comes alive with a local festival of concerts, volleyball, small bars and food stalls. You can also kayak along the river, and find small cascades and swimming holes.

On the Mission Trail

To evangelize Mexico’s interior, five Franciscan missions were built in the mid-18^th Century. Their unique facades incorporate creative elements of the Indigenous populations, coined “Mestizo Baroque.” They show the exchange of values and cultural coexistence between the two societies, and are recognized by UNESCO. Besides the angels and saints you’d expect, you’ll find corn, vegetables and local stones. The five Missions are:

• Santiago de Jalpan (1751–58), and Nuestra Señora de la Luz de Tancoyol are the oldest.
• In Landa de Matamoros, Purísima Concepción (or Santa Maria del Agua de Landa) is the most elaborate; plus visit San Francisco del Valle de Tilaco, with its curious mermaids.
• The mission of San Miguel Concá is in Arroyo Seco, where you’ll also find the Arbol Milanerio, or ‘Millennial Tree,’ the second-widest in Mexico (22m diameter). It sits in a natural spring that serves the town with crystal water. You need to cross a sports field to find it.
  

Sotano de Barro

It is quite the adventure to get to this giant sinkhole – what they call a ‘sima’ or chasm – but the reward is great: at sunrise and sunset you can catch a glimpse of one of the few remaining colonies of military Macaws in Central Mexico. The chasm is so large – around 420 meters at its widest part – it could fit a Boeing 747. It was formed 1.5 million years ago when the bedrock collapsed, leaving a 455m-deep hole. The most spectacular sight is when the military macaws leave their nests in the morning to feed, around 7am. It’s about a two-hour hike (7km) to reach the sinkhole, so it is recommended to stay in the cabins (or camp!) in the community of Santa María Cocos, and start around 5am. The ascent takes you up some 1000m to the cave rim. It is required to go with a local guide, who you can find in the town, and donkeys are available. You’ll see a sign to the town off of the road between Jalpan and Río Verde (Federal Highway 69), which takes you on around 30km of dirt road.

Pinol de Amoles

Massive tourism is still yet to arrive to this mountain village, and there’s plenty of hidey holes which you might even have to yourself. In this red-roofed mining own, you can see 100-year-old adobe houses, narrow streets, and the local temple dedicated to San Jose. It looks all the more mysterious when clouds descend upon the town. On the highway (San Juan del Río–Xilitla highway at kilometer 135.5), you’ll pass by a narrow canyon, which when the cloud descends, appears as if you’re entering heaven, hence the name ‘Puerta del Cielo’ (look to one side for a fire brigade, and on the upper side a chapel for Virgin Mary). Like Jalpan, Pinol de Amoles is a good base to explore the nearby sites, such as Puente de Dios and Chuvejé waterfalls. Closeby, you can also find the historic Ex-Convent of Bucareli. In Ahuacatlan, you can visit the Mission of Our Lady of Ahuacatlán de Guadalupe, or explore the subterranean abyss, the Sotanito de Ahuacatlan, with a local guide. Inside the Cueva de los Riscos, located 3km from the Huajale community, you can find a rock in the shape of a bell tower, which emits a similar sound when you hit it. A local guide is needed. Pinol Amoles is at one of the higest points in Sierra Gorda, surrounded by confier forests and two rivers. There are places to camp, such as Campo Santo or Cruz de Palo, but you’ll need jackets as it’s a cool area year-round. In March you can join the festivals in honor of San Jose, where you can experience the local music and a dance competition, Concurso Nacional de Baile de Huapango.

Cuatro Palos Lookout  

When you reach the highest point between Queretaro and Sierra Gorda, you can stop at this lookout to see the meeting place of two ecosystems: oak forests meet semi-desert landscapes. From the top of the Cerro de la Media Luna (Half Moon Mountain) you get the best panoramic views of spectacular ridges and giant cliffs, sometimes even above the clouds. You can also find camping, tours and other accommodation offered by the local women’s cooperative.

On the Federal Highway 120, you’ll see the community of La Cañada; at kilometer 132.5, turn down a dirt road 5km until you arrive at the community of Cuatro Palos. There you can hire a guide and hike for approximately 5km or 25 minutes to the point of observation, on a trail which ascends to 2700m above sea level.

Support Women’s Workshops

There have been several efforts to boost local tourism, such as the ‘Food Trail,’ which highlights several women-run restaurants serving regional goodies. You can also visit co-operatives to buy – or make your own – artisanal goods. The ‘Las Mariposas Ceramic Workshop’ is the collaboration of women artisans from Soledad de Guadalupe, where experienced potters pass on knowledge of their traditional pottery. There’s also an embroidery workshop (Taller de Bordados) in La Colgada, which employs women from the local communities, some who walk hours to join this women co-operative. You can also find locally produced foods and natural remedies. This interactive page shows you all the options.

Cañón el Infiernillo

This canyon and a cave (Gruta de Xahjay) is just 2.5hrs from Queretaro. The local macaws start each day sqwarking in this canyon, also know as the canyon of Sauz de Guadalupe. With walls reaching almost 100m, its hard for even the light to enter in some parts. You can rappel, and there is also a fun jump of 15m for the adventurous. You can camp in Saúz de Guadalupe. Nearby you can double up your visit with a trip to a Presa de Zimapán, for boating and fishing.

Tancama Archaeological Site

This archeological site dates back to around 200–900AD, located between Jalpan and Landa de Matamoros. The unique feature of this sites is the circular and semi-circular structures, which are typical of the region. You can find around 62 buildings to various degrees of preservation, built by the La Huasteca culture. Two other archaeological zones include the Ranas and Toluquilla Archaeological Zones, which are near to each other and closer to Queretaro at around 2.5hrs.

Visit a Cave

There are a couple of caves near the town of San Joaquin, which are worth a quick look if you have spare time. After a short walk through a forest, you’ll see a hole in the hill; entering La Esperanza Grottoes (9am–6pm) takes you underground via a spiral staircase to reach its stalagmites and stalactites. Grottos los Herrera (10am–5pm, closed Mondays) has a boardwalk and six areas to visit; enjoy the beautiful surrounding scenary on your trip there.